Splanky I—Atlantic

In the Reykjavik Art Museum at Hafnarhús there was, when I first visited with my brother in 2018, a room given over to two sculptural installations by the Icelandic artist Ragna Róbertsdóttir (b.

The organ in the Hallgrímskirkya in Reykjavik is a giant’s causeway of clustered steel pipes, five thousand two hundred and seventy-five of them. It has seventy-two stops, four manuals and a pedalboard,

Get the nets. The whole sea’s boiling. Peter Grimes (Montagu Slater) The herring will set you free. After a fashion. North Atlantic fishermen had always hunted the herring, in amongst the cod

The northernmost point of the British Isles is mostly gannets. Your last footstep, heading north, before you splash off the islands forever and into the grey sea, would be on a gannet, or

On a fjord in the far north west of Iceland, on the Hornstrandir peninsula, there is a long-disused Norwegian whale-processing factory.  To reach the Hornstrandir is not a simple matter. It is a